Evenings in Cook’s Bay

Day’s end. Tour boats glide back to safe harbor. Waka* move rhythmically across the bay, training for competition or simply for the joy of it. The back-and-forth of dinghies slows. The bay quiets, though muffled barks still echo from shore, and construction machinery still hums as sites shut down for the day.

Everything dims as the sun meets the horizon. I’m suddenly struck by the beauty around me: waves glowing molten in shades of silver, copper, and gold. Catching myself, I glance up where towering cumulus clouds blush peach.  In just moments, the golden hour arrives.

Sundowners, the sailor’s happy hour, is a cherished cruising tradition. Wine glasses in hand, Walt and I savor the evening, waiting for the moon and stars to emerge…sometimes boldly against a velvet sky; sometimes slipping silently in between the clouds.

The Mornings Wake Gently

Not just a mirror of sunset, sunrise carries its own soft drama, pastel and serene. The quiet bay begins to stir. Roosters crow like alarm clocks from every side of the narrow bay. Fishermen return with their catch. Small local tour boats cruise by, ready to narrate local lore and history to their passengers. Jet skis zip past.

A cruise ship occasionally anchors at the mouth of the bay and ferries its guests ashore to enjoy local music, vendors, and cuisine. On land, there’s a steady stream of traffic and sounds of machinery.

Coffee mugs at our lips, Walt and I sit in the cockpit, watching the daily rituals unfold with interest and amusement, the NYTimes puzzles at the ready.

Chores, Practice, and Boat Life Basics

There’s always something to do on a boat! I can’t imagine getting bored. As Walt reminds me, the saltwater environment is a harsh one, so cleaning, polishing, airing things out, and debearding the hull aren’t just done for cosmetic reasons.

For me, there’s always time to practice: knots, winches, coiling lines, running the water maker. I’ve tuned into webinars on clouds, weather, and departure planning. I’m learning to whip lines, make yogurt, and—when the mood strikes—bake bread, relying on what I was taught by a dear friend, who at 90 is still baking.

The Joy of Reading and Listening

Walt has two bookcases stacked with nautical references, and my Kindle is rarely out of reach, though sometimes out of charge. Often, I’m reading cover-to-cover; other times find me juggling two or three books at once. I’ve also befriended a handful of podcasts that have become my go-tos while tackling chores.

Happily, I’ve rediscovered the quiet pleasure of curling up with a good book and diving into new genres, new voices.

Just Jumping In

It almost goes without saying: the tropics can be hot, at times merciless with sun and humidity. There’s no better cure for the heat than knowing I can step off the stern for a swim and cool down with a couple lazy laps around the boat. Sweet relief.

*Traditional Polynesian outrigger canoes